Bath Sconces Should be Located on either side of the Sink.

Placement of Bath Sconces: A pair of fixtures flanking a mirror above the sink provide excellent cross-illumination – eliminating shadows on the face.  The fixtures should be mounted at eye-level.  As a general rule of thumb, I place the center of the bulb at 5 feet 6 inches from the floor.  The shades for these vanity sconces should be translucent glass or plastic so the light projects out toward your face.  I usually use 23 watt fluorescent bulb (100 watt equivalent incandescent) bulbs for each sconce.  They should be placed equi-distant from the center of the sink and 36” to 40” apart.  If the sink is in an alcove, you can locate the sconces on the adjacent walls, see below.

In an alcove, the sconces can be on the adjacent walls

General Lighting: Only for a very small room, you can rely on the sconces alone.  For most baths, you also want separate general lighting.  For the master bath, top, 4 identical sconces were used.  Two are placed on either side of the sink.  These sconces are mounted on top of the wall mirror – greatly expanding their illumination quality.  Two additional sconces help create a sense of a nook for the soaking tub.  A center ceiling fixture (not shown) provides general illumination.

Ceiling Washers Provide General Lighting in This Bath

In the master bath, above, again general illumination is created by ceiling washing sconces placed high on the wall.  These fluorescent fixtures – one is shown, there are 4 in the room – create a bright overall glow in the fully tiled room.

Fan/Light Combinations: I often use an exhaust fan/light combination for a bath.  In the bath above and below, I put the light/fan combination above the shower.  Since the show creates a lot of moist air, this combination provides both functional light for the show and efficiently exhausts the moist air to the outside.

Fan/Light Combinations Work Great Above a Shower

Remember that all light fixtures installed within tub and shower spaces should be marked “suitable for damp/wet locations.”

Hanging Fixtures: Generally, hanging fixtures aren’t used in a bath.  By code, hanging no part of a suspended fixture, tracking lighting or ceiling paddle fan is permitted within a zone of 3’ horizontally and 8’ vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower stall threshold.  Used near a vanity, they often get in the way of opening the door of the medicine cabinet.  Robern has solved that problem by offering an uplift cabinet, see below.  The door lifts up instead of out allowing for pendant lights such as the combination shown below.

Robern Uplift Cabinet Allows For Pendants By Vanity

First, remodeling – almost by its very definition – is “green”.  You’re taking a resource with tremendous embedded energy costs and you’re re-using it.  For most of my clients who live in Washington DC or it’s very close-in suburbs, this is especially true because of the proximity to services and transportation.  For example, I can easily walk to the grocery store, drug store and Metro (mass transit).  But you can make your remodel remarkable un-green unless you follow the following 5 steps:

1.  RE-USE AND RECYCLE: Keep as much as possible out of the dumpster!
- Donate or Sell reusable components: Community Forklift (in my area) or the Habitat for Humanity Re-stores (around the Country &  the world) will take all cabinets, countertops, and major appliances that are in good condition for resale – and you can take the value off your taxes as a charitable contribution.  If you want to earn a little money, use Craig’s List instead to sell the same components.
- Sort construction debris into recycle streams such as concrete, metal, wood, cardboard and plastic and use a Roll-off Company that recycles.  I’m aware of 2 in our area:  Nova
and EAI.  There may be additional waste companies that actively recycle construction waste streams.

Sign for Recycling Wood Construction Waste

- Re- Use your own or others components.  You’ll be surprised at the quality of materials you can find at Community Forklift and the Habitat for Humanity Stores – including cabinets, countertops, plumbing fixtures, doors, windows, radiators and anything else you need to buy for your remodel.  They might not be the right style for the homeowner who donated them but they might be just right for you – or just right with some sanding and a coat of paint.

2.  STAY WITHIN THE EXISTING FOOTPRINT or limit your expansion to a small bump-out or limited addition.  The less room you use, the less you need to heat and cool, the less material you need, and you limit the impact on the root zone of existing trees and shrubs.  In my opinion, when you turn a 2000 sf home into a 5000 sf home for 2 people, there is no number of solar collectors or other interventions that can make the remodel “green”.  Even if you achieve net zero energy usage and don’t need to spend money to heat the space that you rarely use, you have still wasted an extraordinary amount of energy and water to build the rarely used space.

3.  TAKE ADVANTAGE OF OPPORTUNITIES TO SEAL AND INSULATE: If you’re removing the interior plaster or drywall or the exterior siding or stucco, take the time to insulate the cavity.  I’m a huge proponent of spray foam insulation but trust your building contractor about what’s right in your circumstances.  If you’re not removing the interior or exterior wall cladding, but you’re still having going to have to repair and repaint walls, take the opportunity to blow in insulation through holes drilled in each wall cavity.  Also take the opportunity of having workers onsite to seal all drafts and places where air leaks into and out of your home. They are the biggest winners, while conversely if you don’t take care of them they’ll undo the effectiveness of any other improvements. Many of the biggest ones are hidden; for instance, the vertical chase of each “wet wall” (space for pipes behind your tubs and showers) is usually open to the attic.

4.  LOOK FOR WAYS TO CONSERVE ENERGY & WATER RESOURCES:
- Major Mechanical Systems – Don’t throw away major systems that are working and working efficiently.  But if you’re replacing your furnace, look at the possibility of a geothermal system.  If that’s not feasible, definitely buy as efficient a system as you can afford.  If you need to replace your hot water heater, consider a hybrid system, a solar system, or a tankless system.  Factor in energy tax credits and incentives when you calculate the costs.
- Water Conservation – When you’re specifying the kitchen and bath plumbing fixtures, don’t forget to think about water savings features like a foot control for the faucets and low flow fixtures.  You should absolutely factor rainwater collection into the design or your roof and drainage systems.
- Energy Conservation – Think LED and Fluorescent lighting – only.  Don’t even consider incandescent fixtures and lamps.  Always buy energy star appliances and components.
The opportunities for energy and water savings systems are tremendous today and getting better with each passing day.

5.  REDUCE MAINTENANCE AND MONTHLY OPERATING EXPENSES: Actively consider the operating and maintenance costs of the materials you specify.   For example, the lower maintenance costs – in just a few years – of integrally colored fiber cement siding far exceeds the increase in initial installation.

6.  USE LOCAL RESOURCES: Recycled content in countertops is all the rage today.  But using a local craftsman to hand-craft a concrete countertop is far more environmentally friendly than having that countertop using recycled materials shipped across the country and especially shipped from overseas!.

Only after you incorporate these 6 concepts into your remodel should you consider the “green” provenance of specific materials such as countertops, flooring, and other components.

For additional information, both the cities of Seattle and Portland have produced invaluable guides about green remodeling.
Seattle’s Green Remodeling Guides
Portland Green Remodeling Guide

Window films come in a huge variety of patterns and levels of translucency.  Window films are also friendly for “do-it-yourselfers”.  Here are some ideas and resources.  Whether your home is traditional or contemporary, you’ll find styles to suit.

Design by Maria Liv From the Scandinavian Design Center

The design above is by Maria Liv.  This design and others by Maria Liv are available online from the Scandinavian Design Center.

By Strossel Design

Window Film by Strossel Design

The two designs above are  by Strossel Design and others by Strossel Design are also available online from the Scandinavian Design Center as well as from Rare Device.

The above designs are available in set sizes.  If you want more flexibility to customize a design to your window or door or to design your own, check out Window Film Factory.   Below are 2 of their stock designs but they will be customized for your window size.

Stock Design From Window Film Factory

Stock Design From Window Film Factory

You can also use this company for written messages, house numbers or other alpha-numeric designs.

I used Decorative Films for the simple frosted film for the closet doors, below.  They have a wide variety of films including floral patterns, stained glass patterns, and architectural patterns all of which can be ordered in a variety of widths and cut to the foot.

Frosted Film for Closet Doors

I recommend that you use self-clinging window film without adhesive.  The directions are quite easy:
1. Cut the right size of the film and remove backpaper.
2. Spray window with water and soap solution.
Apply the film to the window and press bubbles out with a cloth or window scraper.
The film is easy to remove without leaving a trace.
I will advise that larger windows can be hard to do and you’ll need help.  It took two of us to apply the film to the doors, above.  Each panel was approximately 80 x 36.  We probably could have used a 3rd hand.  We also found it easier with these large expanses to remove the doors and lay them flat on saw horses.

I plan to use the left-over film to create a custom design on one of my own windows.  I’ll apply the film as a single piece and then cut out designs with a utility knife.  I’ll show you pictures when I’m done.

By the way, you can also pick up static cling window films at Home Depot and Lowes — you’ll just have less of a selection.

Laminate Countertops, Mid-Range Appliances, and Leaving the Sink in Place Help Keep Costs Down

1.    Plan! Plan! Plan! The best way to go over-budget in any remodeling project is to just jump in.  Kitchen remodeling planning and research should address (1) what’s your main problem or objective.  Keep your focus on what’s most important to you.  (2) the price of everything (and I mean everything) you want/need to purchase (3) firm bids from all contractors (4) a contingency of at least 15% (5) remember the price of shipping and taxes and (6) reviews of appliances and materials.  See also this Planning Guide.
2.    Do it Yourself. Think about all the various items that go into remodeling your kitchen – tiling, carpentry, hanging cabinets, painting, and staining – to name a few.  Think through which of these you can do yourself because labor is a huge component of the price of remodeling.  Don’t take on any of the big items if you haven’t done it before like hanging cabinets or carpentry.  But tiling and painting are great jobs for the amateur.  To get a sense of the cost of materials for kitchen remodeling look here.    The big lesson is that to keep the costs under $10,000 you must be prepared to do some of the work yourself.  But if you select the right items to update, the tasks aren’t hard.
3.    Look for Free Kitchen Design Services and Advice.  A kitchen center – even home depot, Lowes or IKEA – have very useful software and sometimes knowledgeable personnel to help you visualize what your new kitchen will look like and to help you think through pitfalls.  For example, you don’t want to place an island where it blocks the dishwasher from opening.  Similarly, ask the opnion of your friends and family before you make your designs final.  You’re not asking for approval here but simply asking for a different perspective.  We all have different strengths and your friend might think of something that you haven’t.
4.    Keep the existing footprint – even if you want to open up to another room, keep the sink, dishwasher and range in their current locations.  An electric range is the least costly to move even this adds the cost of an electrician.
5.    Laminate or Tile Countertops: Today’s laminates are terrific!  I have a stone-look laminate desktop that most people think is stone at first glance.  And laminate is a delight to work on.  It’s a fraction of the cost of granite countertops.
6.    Update don’t replace cabinets. Think paint or stain.  If your cabinets are sound but just not to your style, update don’t replace cabinets.

Stained Builder-Grade Cabinets Refresh Kitchen

If that isn’t enough, think about replacing only the doors and drawer fronts.
7.    Be creative about materials and re-use. If you go to building re-use centers like the store associated with Habitat for Humanities or Community Forklift in my area, you can find almost new cabinets, countertops, and appliances.  Also look at Craig’s List or similar resources.  Develop the plan first with all the dimensions and bring this with you (as well as a tape measure).  But also be flexible to change your plan based on what’s available.  Also think about tables – especially industrial worktables – as an alternative to a traditional cabinet-made island.  You also might be able to re-use some of what’s in your existing kitchen – with a bit of elbow grease and imagination.

You shouldn’t cut corners with electrical, plumbing or structural changes – but these aren’t really the expensive part of remodeling.  What drives up costs is changing the exterior shell of your home – adding windows and doors and material selection.  A separate cooktop and ovens can add thousands of dollars to the cost of a remodel over a simple (but good quality) range.

1.    Plan First.  List what you like and don’t like about your existing kitchen or bath.  Also what you like or don’t like about kitchens and baths you’ve been in – maybe a luxury hotel or former home.  Write it down.  Turn it into a wish-list for your remodel.  Review the wish-list at several points during the planning process and one last time before you begin construction.  Make sure you’re not forgetting anything.  It’s really easy to forget a small but important detail.
2.    Create a workbook. Clip Pictures and analyze.  It’s rare that you like everything in the image in a shelter magazine.  What’s making you feel good about the room?  Is it the color, the light fixtures, the color of the wood, the style of the cabinets.  Then review it with others – not to get them to approve but to have them tell you what they see.  We all take in details differently.  Maybe they notice a detail that’s important to the look that your eye missed.
3.    Guidelines from NKBA – The National Kitchen and Bath Association.
These guidelines are a must read for anyone remodeling a kitchen or bath.  If you stick with these guidelines, you will avoid myriad problems such as not being able to fully open appliance doors or bumping into stools every time you move around the new island.
Kitchen Guidelines
Bath Guidelines
4.    Create a Budget – Even if you’re hiring a contractor to do most of the work, a detailed budget is a must.  List the price of everything (and I mean everything) you want/need to purchase.  Here are some resources to follow:
- Budgeting for Remodeling a Project
- What Does It Cost to Remodel A Kitchen?
- Comparing Bids
Then remember to also:
- Round up all numbers
- Remember to add in a line for the cost of shipping, delivery and tax
- Add at least 3%-5% for items that you’ve left off the list (this is separate from the contingency (below)
5.    Add a contingency of 10% to 25%. The contingency can be 10% if you’ve done this before and it’s a relatively straightforward remodel.  If it’s your first time or it’s an old house, I strongly recommend a contingency of 25%.  There are dozens of items that you don’t know you need until you’re missing it.
6.    Update your budget every time your purchase an item or something changes.   If you budgeted $100 for hardware and end up spending $300, update the budget.  Going over your budgeted allowance by $200 on 10 items is $2,000 added to the budget.  Don’t get surprised at the end or end up not being able to finish because you ran out of money.  If the contractor included allowances in the budget for items like fixtures, keep you own budget of the actual versus the allowance.
7.    Include Decorating Items in the budget. Your remodel isn’t really complete until you’re installed items like window treatments, rugs and specialty items like stools.  If you haven’t purchased them lately, these items can be quite expensive.  Don’t get caught without money to complete the work.
8.    Make a Schedule & add 30%. Work with your contractor or installer (maybe your husband, brother, or sister) to establish a schedule.  And than add 30% to the planned time.  If your installer has never done it before – add 50% or more to the schedule.  If your contractor says it will take 2 months, plan on a 10-11 week project.  Rarely does everything go as planned and we usually underestimate the time it will take to accomplish any task.   Mentally it’s far easier to have the remodeled kitchen ready before you plan than to have weeks of work left when you thought you would be enjoying the new room.
9.    Make sure this is a good time to remodel – Think about activities that you have planned – a dinner party or graduation ceremony.  Don’t cut the time too close.  Also add in time for you to get the new space set-up and decorated.
10.    Don’t confuse price with quality. You can buy the same size stainless steel sink for $200 or $2000.  Don’t presume that the $2,000 sink is better.  Its higher price is likely due to name brand, finishes or features that may or may not be useful to you.  Think through what you need and don’t be persuaded that more is better.
11.    Read Reviews. One of the best things about the internet is the ability to read what folks think about the product or service you’re thinking of buying.  And remember, we don’t all value things the same way.  So even if someone rated a product poorly (or highly), they might want the product to perform differently than how you intend to use it.  Pay attention especially to issues of maintenance or reliability.  Reviews can be really helpful to help you figure out whether the features of the higher priced sink or other fixture is worth the additional money for the way you cook or live.  I personally like Amazon reviews and often start there for most products.
12.    Don’t Necessarily Go with the low Price Merchant. Along with product reviews, also read merchant reviews.  You don’t want to delay your project because items don’t arrive or arrive damaged.
13.    Have the Installer Review Product Specs Before You Buy. Kitchen and bath fixtures and appliances have become quite complex.  It used to be that you could be pretty certain that a faucet or drain would work with any sink.  No longer.  Some sinks require 1-1/4 inch drain assemblies and some require 1-3/8 or 1/1/2 assemblies.  Some sinks require overflow drain assemblies and some will leak if you use an overflow drain assembly.  One cooktop described as 36” can fit in a 36” cabinet and some require a 39” or 42” cabinet.  The list is endless.
14.    Select the contractor carefully. Don’t assume that because your neighbor or friend had a good experience with a contractor that you will also.  The difference in experience might be because you expect a different level of quality, because the scope of the work is different, or because the finish level is different.  Here’s a handy guide about what to ask references (including your friend or neighbor).
Remember, that you’ll be with your contractor every day for weeks or months.  Make sure you like them.  If you have any hesitation about the individual listen to your gut!
15.    Plan for a Temporary Kitchen. If you’re doing a kitchen remodel, there will likely be some period when the kitchen is unavailable.  Work with your contractor to figure out where and how you can make coffee, make breakfast and dinner, wash dishes.  This should be someplace with water but could be near a bath or in the basement.  Also work with the contractor to limit the time that the kitchen is unavailable to you.  This can be done by appropriate staging of the work.
16.    Remodeling is Dirty and Dusty. Plan accordingly.  First, make sure that the contractor or installer is experienced using strategies to reduce dust and dirt in the living area.  Second, make sure you protect your furnishing and equipment.   Third, think about whether you can tolerate the dust and disruption for the period of the project.  Your frustrations will probably be even worse if you have children.  If this is going to strain your family, plan to live someplace else during construction – but still make sure that your contractor used strategies to limit dust and dirt.
17.    Plan for a move-in cleaning service before you move back in or start using the new room.

The next few items have to do with the design itself:

18.    Make sure there’s enough light– daylight and artificial.  Too many homeowners leave lighting to the end – having sufficient daylight and artificial light is critical to your enjoyment of the remodeled home.  If your budget is tight, think about sacrificing some of the more expensive details for larger or more windows and better lighting.  Further, if you wait until the end to think about lighting, it can significantly increase your building costs since running wires is done early in the remodeling process.
19.    Make sure there’s enough storage. You already own a lot of what will go into the remodeled space and know of future needs.  Plan where everything goes before you complete your planning process so you know you have spaces for everything.
20.    Do Furniture Arrangements Before Your Start Construction. Far too often I hear complaints that homeowners feel that furniture arrangements are awkward after all the work of remodeling.  It’s easy to see a big space on the floor plan and just assume that your furniture will work.  Use a low-cost software program or a cut and paste planner to arrange your furniture and make sure it will work in the new space.  If my clients have artwork or other special items, I make sure spaces are pre-planned for these special items.
21.    Make sure the views are inviting. When I design plans for my clients, I think about focal points and views through rooms and to the outside.  This prevents finding out only after you’ve finished that you look at dirty dishes each time you walk into the house or that when you sit down you lose the gorgeous views.  I use rendering software to accomplish this.  You can also frame views with cardboard cutouts or other such physical means.
22.    Involve all the members of your household. Your children have valuable insight into what’s comfortable and how they use the house.  Make sure you involve everyone who will be living in the home.  It will also help create buy-in to the end result.  If you’re using a designer, he or she can help you with this process and help reconcile divergent opinions so that tension doesn’t result.
23.    Keep style consistent with rest of home. I personally hate when I walk into a house and know exactly where the addition starts and the original house ends because the homeowner changed style or trim details.  This doesn’t mean that you need to replicate what exists, but don’t plan for conflicting styles.  It be as simple as replicating crown or base molding.
24.    Think through future remodeling plans. If you’re planning on several phases of work, make sure you design the subsequent phases before moving forward with early phases.  You’ll feel awful if your only choice next year or in five years is to either forego something that you really want to do or rip out portions of what you’ve already because you didn’t think it through in advance.
25.    Enjoy yourself! Remodeling can create strain and conflict – worries about money, frustration at the mess and the strain of having strangers in your house each day.  If you can’t enjoy the process keep your mind focused on the terrific outcome.

Wedge Shaped Counter Makes Tiny Bath Work

Of course, to keep costs down we kept the toilet and shower in their existing locations.  We moved the sink just slighting along the wall.  The room configuration eliminated the ability to have both a glass shower door and a normal vanity.

Floating Wedge-Shaped Countertop with Vessel Sink:  Our solution was a wedge-shaped floating limestone countertop.  The shape of the countertop dictated the use of a vessel sink and a wall-mounted faucet.

Floating Shelving Below & Opposite: We used floating wedge-shaped open shelving below the countertop.  This look is echoed on the opposite side by smaller wedge shaped shelving at the same heights.  The open shelving allows for more accessible and efficient storage.

Floating Shelves Help Make Tiny Bath Feel More Open

Stone-Look Porcelain Tile: We used stone-look porcelain tile to keep costs reasonable.

Custom Square Shower: To give maximum range to the shower door we built a 5” wide wing wall on which to mount the hinges for the door.  A door stop mounted under the countertop keeps the shower door from hitting the countertop, sink or lighting.  The custom size and wing wall dictated a tiled shower pan.  We used 2” mosaic porcelain tile that matches the tile used in the rest of the bath.  The glass is etched to provide privacy since the bath is used by the more than one individual.

Shower Bar & Corner Shelf: We used a shower bar which allows the girls to adjust the shower head to their height.  It also allows them to shower without getting their hair wet if they desire.  I have a strong preference for Jado shower bars.  They are designed to provide a better range of up and down as well as side-to-side flexibility in directing the shower head.  We selected a head with multiple jet options.  A corner storage shelf mounted relatively high stores soap as well as shampoo and bodywash up and away from the stream of the shower.

Shower Bar Is Flexible for Taller & Shorter Occupants

Wall mirror plus tall mirrored medicine cabinet: A large wall mounted mirror gives the girls a good view of themselves and their clothing.  We recessed a tall medicine cabinet on the opposite wall.  By opening the door of the medicine cabinet to varying degrees, the girls can see their backs and the back of their hair.  [Note: one of the girls has written “you are beautiful” in red in two places on the medicine cabinet.]

Lighting, Heat & Ventilation: Sconces mounted on the wall mirror needed to be shallow enough not to interfere with the open shower door.  They are positioned for good lighting for applying makeup.  The same scone is mounted horizontally above the medicine cabinet.  We selected an exhaust fan that also provides heat and lighting.  The heater helps warm the room on cold winter days without heating the rest of the house.  The unit also has a ceiling light and nighlight as part of the unit.

To keep the room looking neat, we installed hooks on the door for towels and robes.  A towel bar on the shower door and a towel ring on the mirror provide additional places for hand and bath towels.

Scroll down to see the new floor plan and “before” pictures.

Floor Plan Shows How Wedge-Shaped Countertop Opens Up Tiny Bath

Before Photo with Shower Curtain & Standard Vanity

Refreshing a Builder-Grade Master Bath

My client, living in a relatively new condo in Silver Spring, was unsatisfied with the builder-grade master bath (see below).  Her main request was for additional accessible drawer storage but she also wanted frameless shower doors and a look that coordinated better with the higher-end finishes throughout the condo.   We did replace the shower doors but didn’t get a picture of the new doors because of too much reflection.

Custom Vanity & Vessel Sink:  In order to maximize drawer storage we designed a custom vanity.  By measuring the location of the existing trap and valves, we could custom design the vanity for maximum storage.  Using a vessel sink also frees up room in the vanity for storage.  The square vessel sink with vessel mounted faucet provides a nice focal point.  The square sink and bar pulls reflects other modern, linear touches throughout the condo.  The curve of the faucet keeps the linear look from becoming monotonous.  The sink is Porcher “Cubo” and the faucet is Hansgrohe “Talis”

Banjo Countertop:  Instead of the replacing the original rectangular countertop with the same shape, we designed a banjo countertop that also covers the top of the toilet tank.  The gives room for decorative touches and helps integrate the feel of the bath.  Soft curves provide safety as well as a nice flow.  Using 3/4 inch material emphases the horizontal lines.

Palette:  We used honey-colored cherry wood that echo the colors in the kitchen and dining room; Crema Marfil marble with grey and brown veining and Benjamin Moore “eclipse” paint in an eggshell finish.  Most of the hardware is chrome with just a few touches of brushed steel.  The dramatic palette reflects the use of saturated accent colors elsewhere in the condo.  The selection of the Crema Marfil marble makes the builder-grade crème/beige floor tile appear more luxurious than it actually is.

I neglected to take “before” pictures.  The “before” picture, below, was pulled from the listing of another unit in the building.  It’s a different configuration but uses the same materials as the one we remodeled.

Before: Builder Grade Vanilla Bath

Banks of Lighting Can Have Confusing Controls

The answer to these clients is lighting controls.  Lutron, Leviton and many other manufacturers support what’s often known as scene controls.  This controller is in the home of one of my friends who built a high-end new home.  You can select a single button and turn on a specific pre-selected set of fixtures to turn on and each at a selected dimming level.  So when I visit, I can turn on the lights I need to make coffee in the morning and then select a different set to turn on lights that only light my favorite reading chair.  I don’t need to turn on excess lights or experiment with what grouping will work.  My friends entertain frequently and have light groupings and levels set for different types of entertaining.  Equally nice is the ability to push a single button and turn-off every light on the entire floor at once when retiring for the night or leaving the house for the day.

Scene Lighting Controls

These systems are not cheap.  There are many additional wiring runs required and usually the assistance of skilled labor to program what’s required.  Such a system will add thousands of dollars to your remodeling budget – and is only really worth doing in my opinion if you’re bringing walls down to studs.  These systems are part of what’s known as structured wiring.  Structured wiring systems can also be more extensive including automation to raise and lower sets of blinds, turn-up and down your thermostat, and run your media, network and security systems.  While increasingly high-end homes include such systems, mid-range remodels seldom include them.

The time to consider the system is at the beginning of a remodel because costs are dramatically affected by advance planning.  Retro-fitting after a remodel is underway can add unnecessary costs to the project.

This Room Highlights First 3 Principals of Daylighting

1.    Light every room from at least 2 sides. We feel more comfortable when we have daylight from 2 sides – it reduces glare and increases exposure.  When the room you’re daylighting isn’t on a corner with windows on 2 adjacent walls, you can borrow daylight from other areas of the home.  See Borrowing Light.
2.    Bounce Lights off surfaces. You’ll get more daylight if you bounce the light off adjacent surfaces – walls and ceilings.  So I’ll place windows adjacent to a sidewall or close to the ceiling rather than in the middle of a room.  If you have windows in the middle of a room, add painted built-ins on either side to bounce the existing light further into the room.
3.    Doors vs. Windows. Whenever I’m remodeling to connect a home to the outdoors, I’ll use glass doors instead of windows.  This gives you the sense that the outdoor garden room is an extension of the home rather than being outdoors.

Glass Doors Make Garden Room Part of Home

4.    Consider Exposure. If you’re in the south or other areas where cooling is a greater expense than heating, you’ll want to limit southern and western exposures or at least include overhangs that block intense summer sun.  However, in northern climates, where heating is a bigger cost and concern, you want greater southern exposure.  Of course, in a remodeling situation you have a lot less choice than in building new.  In my own home in Washington DC where cooling is a big expense, I only have good access to the outdoors on my western exposure.  I’ll still use extensive windows but I’ve already planted trees to block intense afternoon summer daylight and will include wide roof overhangs to let in winter light but blocks intense summer sun.
5.    Light from above. Light from skylights can be nice but I resist putting them in western and southern facing roofs.  The daylight is too intense and much less controllable than are windows.  However, in a very shaded lot, skylights can make what was previously a dark room wonderfully comfortable.  And I usually, again, place skylights at the room edge to bounce light off the wall and help brighten and diffuse the light in the room.

Skylights At Room's Edge Bring More Light Into Room

For me the answer is simple – when you live in a place you love, that fits you and your family to a tee, and that embodies your sense of beauty – you’re both happier and healthier.  Only you can put the proper value on how much a given remodeling project will enhance your well being.

Front Porch Stimulates Impromptu Coffee-Klatches With Neighbors

Using one of my clients as a case study, here are 4 concepts to keep in mind as you embark on making your existing home your dream home.

1.    Home Maintenance and Repair. My client replaced dented, stained aluminum siding with fiber cement siding.  They also took the opportunity to blow insulation into wall cavities and add rigid foam insulation between the sheathing and the new siding.  The windows had been replaced some years before.  These improvements – according to the report – are good investments since they will reduce heating and cooling costs, make the home more comfortable and return more than 80% of their value.

Siding & Roofing Improvement Return Value; Safe Steps Keep Mind On Home

2.    Curb Appeal and Neighborhood Interaction. My client added a full-length front porch that both dramatically changed the relationship of the home to the neighborhood but also improved the curb appeal by integrating and replacing diverse roof lines from previous additions.  Front landscaping and a new safer front stairs complete the front curb appeal.  Now, instead of being separated from the neighborhood, the homeowners have frequent impromptu coffee-klatches on the front porch with neighbors and friends.

Curb appeal projects are more typically low cost projects that can dramatically improve the appearance and appeal of your home.  Such projects might include painting, landscape improvements, or refreshing the kitchen or bath without major remodeling.  I try to help clients understand that doing these projects even if you aren’t planning to sell, can make a huge difference in the way you, your family and friends feel about your home.

3.    Lifestyle Improvements. My clients, who regularly entertain both large and small groups, wanted a home that matched their lifestyle.  They also wanted to enlarge their home not with an addition but with a livable garden room.  A kitchen remodel combined with changes that created an open floor plan dramatically changed the way they live – dramatically improving their interaction as a couple and in their entertaining. Now meal preparation is a group activity even if only one person is in the kitchen.  Even relaxing is a joint activity instead of retreating to different parts of the house.  While it’s hard to put a value on the benefits, it’s easier to understand the high price of finding a new house to meet their needs and the disruption to their lives to move to a new neighborhood.   On this measure, the remodel pays for itself.

Lifestyle Improvements - Open Floor Plan

Extend House with Garden Room Addition

4.    Neighborhood Norms and Expectations. Neighborhoods are dramatically different as you travel through a city or across the country.  In some neighborhood, all the houses were built at the same time and from just a few different models.  In these neighborhoods, you’re not likely to recover remodeling costs that don’t stay within the neighborhood norms.  But if you stay within norms, you can often recover remodeling costs.  For example, maybe homes in your neighborhood typically have 2 full baths or a powder room on the first floor and your home does not.  In this case, bringing your home up to the established level of the neighborhood will usually pay off.  Similarly, if you’re selling – or hoping to sell – your home at the top of the market in your neighborhood, the buyer is going to expect the home to be in move-in condition with no addition work.  So if your basement is unfinished, finishing your basement will help your re-sale potential.  Such improvement will not only be important to your buyer but also to achieving an appropriately high appraisal.

However, I usually work in very mixed urban neighborhoods where prices might vary by more than 100% from one house to another.  On my own street, for example, one house sold recently for $900,000 while the one 3 houses down door went for $425,000.  If you own a home near the bottom of the range, you have a broad range of improvements you can make without pricing youself out of the market.  Of course, if you own a home near the top of the market, you might not be able to recoup any improvement costs.

With his remodeled interior and exterior, my client has probably priced his home at the top of the neighborhood values.  So when he sells, his market sales price probably won’t recover the full cost of the remodel.  On the other hand, the money not recovered will likely be less than the transaction costs (commission, closing fees, and moving costs) of moving to another home.  And we didn’t go completely overboard.  The husband wanted a fire-pit.  Rather than build an expensive stone fire-pit, we found a place for a modestly priced commercial model.

Modest Fire-Pit Responds to Lifestyle Dream Withou Breaking Budget